wd~50
Sunday, 04-17-2011
Lower East Side, NYC, NY
It's pretty difficult to watch any TV show involving or using a molecular gastronomy technique without chef Wylie Dufresne being mentioned. He has helped put modernist techniques on the map. The current trend of "whimsical dining" can be credited to chef Dufresne as well. On my trip to New York, I was sure to visit this restaurant to sample some of the creative cuisine. Unfortunately, chef Dufresne was not in house this particular Sunday night, allowing sous chef Jon Bignelli to lead the kitchen on his off-nights. Tasting menu below was $140.
Seasame Seed Cracker
Bohemian Pilsner
Tuatara Brewing Company, New Zealand
Tuatara Brewing Company, New Zealand
Fluke, black sesame, parsnip, green beans
Everything bagel, smoked salmon threads, crispy cream cheese
Black Pilsner
Monchshof World Classic Schwarz, Kulmacher, Germany
Monchshof World Classic Schwarz, Kulmacher, Germany
Foie gras, passionfruit, chinese celery
Poached egg and the shell, caesar dressing, pumpernickel, lily bulb
King oyster 'udon,' sweetbreads, banana-molasses, pickled ginger
Tai snapper, onion tart, coffee, asian pear
Beef and bearnaise
Lamb loin, 'red beans & rice,' chayote squash
Buttermilk ice cream, cumin, orange blossom
Grapefruit curd, campari, hibiscus, sorrel
Soft chocolate, beets, long pepper, ricotta ice cream
Cocoa packets. Rice krispy treats.
VERDICT: This was interesting food to say the least, but the flavors didn't blow me away. It seemed to be more gimmick than taste. Don't get me wrong--I was amused the whole time and I'm really glad I tried it.
Few items on the plate were what they seemed and many familiar flavors came in unexpected textures. Ice cold parsnips? Edible clay 'egg shells?' All the flavors of a bagel in an ice cream dish? Udon made with mushrooms? Modern, for sure.
The lasting memory of the meal is definitely the creativity. Many chefs have since used similar techniques but may be showing more restraint with the molecular gastronomy and focusing more on the flavors. I guess they have Chef Dufresne to thank.
VERDICT: This was interesting food to say the least, but the flavors didn't blow me away. It seemed to be more gimmick than taste. Don't get me wrong--I was amused the whole time and I'm really glad I tried it.
Few items on the plate were what they seemed and many familiar flavors came in unexpected textures. Ice cold parsnips? Edible clay 'egg shells?' All the flavors of a bagel in an ice cream dish? Udon made with mushrooms? Modern, for sure.
The lasting memory of the meal is definitely the creativity. Many chefs have since used similar techniques but may be showing more restraint with the molecular gastronomy and focusing more on the flavors. I guess they have Chef Dufresne to thank.
I know someone has been eating at starred restaurants so needs to post to share the his foodie adventures :)
ReplyDelete