Chimu (07-25-2011)

Chimu

Monday, 07-25-2011

Downtown Los Angeles, CA

http://www.soulfoodofperu.com/

Peruvian food has really taken off in Los Angeles.  Staples like Mario's Peruvian, Natalie Peruvian, and even Pollo a la Brasa have delivered quality and authentic Peruvian dining for years but Ricardo Zarate really put Peruvian cuisine on the map with Mo-Chica and his follow-up Picca.  Chef Mario Alberto Orellana, previously of Mo-Chica and Lazy Ox Canteen, presents his own version of Peruvian food, which a more humble twist he dubs "soul food."  He recently took a spot at Grand Central Market in Downtown Los Angeles and targets primarily the lunch and take-home dinner crowd.

Chicha Morada [$2.50]

Emoliente [$2.50]

CEVICHE CHIMU [$12.00]

Halibut, Sweet Potato, Seaweed, Choclo, Leche del Tigre

SECO DE CORDERO [$11.00]

Lamb Belly, Canario Beans, Black Beer Sauce

CHANCHO [$10.00]

Pork Belly, Stewed Barley, Tomato, Huacatay

VERDICT:

Peruvian ceviche is probably my favorite preparation of raw fish and Chimu's version may be the best I've had in recent memory.  The halibut was perfectly tart with citrus leche de tigre and pickled seaweed yet dampened by the sweet potato puree and crunchy corn.  The meat dishes were delicious as well.  The pork was appropriately fatty with a crispy skin and the lamb was braised to a fall-apart texture.  Both meats were served with a side of stewed beans/barley, which really contributed to the "soul food" aspect of their restaurant.  I would consider this place a less upscale but equally delicious version of Mo-Chica.  Hopefully, they will extend their hours to normal dinner service as well.

 

Melisse (07-23-2011)

Melisse

Saturday, 07-23-2011

Santa Monica, CA

http://melisse.com/

Melisse has been near the top of my list for must-try restaurants for a very long time but I never got around to it--until now.  As one of only 4 two-star Michelin restaurants in Los Angeles (2009 edition), I was extremely excited to give this contemporary French cuisine a shot.  Melisse has been amongst Zagat's highest rated restaurants for 10 years and Chef Josiah Citrin is on the record for actively coveting a third Michelin star before the guide decided to abandon Los Angeles.  Three tasting menus are offered: a"Ten" menu, a vegetarian menu and a overly decadent Carte Blanche.  Imaged below is the "Ten" menu.

AMUSE BOUCHE #1: TWO WAYS, INVERSIONS

Tomato, Goat Cheese, Pistachio

AMUSE BOUCHE #2: CARLSBAD OYSTER

Melon Gelee

 

ASSORTED BREAD

Basil Brioche, Bacon, Olive Ciabatta, Brioche

EGG CAVIAR

Lemon Creme Fraiche, American Caviar

NEW ZEALAND TAI SNAPPER

Kohl Rabi, Sweet Scallion, Mustard Vinaigrette

HEIRLOOM TOMATO SOUP
Summer Squash and Zucchini, Tomato Sorbet


 

SEARED FOIE GRAS

Honey Crisp Farms Plums, Pistachio and Vanilla

 

SANTA BARBARA SPOT PRAWN

Razor Clams, Santa Barbara Uni, Lemon Cucumber, Shiso Infused Watermelon Broth

 

ATLANTIC HALIBUT

Brentwood Corn, Pole Beans, Smoked Tuscan Garlic Emulsion

 

IBERICO PORK PRESSA

Mustard Greens, Potato and Confit Tomato Galette, Pork Jus

FOURME D'AMBERT

Garcia Farms Mulberries, Candied Pecans, Peppered Honey

 

CHOCOLATE AND CARAMEL FONDANT

Hazelnut Crumble, Valrhona Abiano Sorbet, Mochaccino

 

WHITE AND YELLOW PEACH

Ginger Beer and Melisse

 

PETIT FOURS

Vanilla Cream Caneles, Chocolate Chip Cookies, Berry and Chocolate Macaron 

VERDICT:
This was a satisfying meal that demonstrated a full culinary spectrum--from the classic French preparations of seared fois gras and egg caviar to the more "molecular" ginger beer icicles and tomato spherifications.  I was also impressed by the wide array of house-made breads offered (4 imaged above but 6 total offerings).  A highlight of the menu was the spot prawn with uni and shiso watermelon broth, which showcased a refined and composed mixed of flavor and textures, all while preserving the natural flavors of the seafood.  But surprisingly, I wasn't blown away by many of the other dishes like I would expect at a 2-star Michelin restaurant.  They were all good, but not spectacular.  And though the service was attentive, it was slightly off-paced with long waits between the later courses the the earlier courses almost too rushed.  Overall I would still recommend this restaurant to those looking for a French tasting menu.