Picca (06-24-2011)

Picca Peruvian Cantina

Friday, 06-24-2011

Los Angeles, CA

http://www.piccaperu.com

Picca is the 2nd re-incarnation of Pervian cuisine in Los Angeles by Ricardo Zarate, after his smashing success at Mo-Chica.  Since opening the small walk-up counter by USC, he has been busy with organizing and frequently manning the kitchen at semi-permanent pop-up Test Kitchen.  In fact, Picca occupies the same townhouse just one flight of stairs up from the original Test Kitchen location.  Ricardo Zarate has gardnered high accolades in 2010 and 2011 including one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs of the year.  Test Kitchen e-subscribers were invited to a not-so-exclusive preview dinner the two days prior to official opening.  It was organized into a 5 course tasting menu with various offerings to choose from.  Tasty chicken anticuchos were highlighted at Taste of the Nation just a few days prior and I couldn't wait to try more.

CHILCANO DE ANIS [$11.00]

Pisco, Lime Juice, Ginger Syrup, Anise syrup, Soda, Mint

SCALA DEI NEGRE [$12.00]

Grenache, Priorat, Spain 2009

COURSE 1a: CHORITOS

Steamed Mussels, Pancetta, Aji Amarillo Butter

COURSE 1b: CONCHAS A LA PARMESANA

Scallops, Parmesan Cheese, Spinach, Lemon Sauce Dressing

COURSE 2a: CAUSA SUSHI SPICY YELLOW TAIL

Spicy Mayo, Green Onions, Wasabi Tobiko

COURSE 2b: TRES LECHES DE TIGRE

Sea Urchin, Rocoto, Aji Amarillo Shooters

MARACUYA [$11.00]

Pisco, Absinthe, Fresh Passion Fruit, Lemon Juice, Grenadine, Cava, Lemon Twist Garnish

COURSE 3a: BLACK COD MISO ANTICUCHO

Crispy Sweet Potato 

COURSE 3b: CORAZON ANTICUCHO

Beef Heart, Rocoto Sauce

COURSE 4a: ARROZ CON ERIZO

Peruvian Paella, Mixed Seafood, Sea Urchin Sauce

COURSE 4b: BISTECK A LO POBRE

Skirt Steak, Egg, Pan Fried Banana, Chickpeas Tacu Tacu

COURSE 5a: CHEESECAKE

Aji Amarillo, Pinapple, Marmalade 

COURSE 5b: DULCE DE LECHE CHURROS

Carob, Marmalade and Chocolate Sauces

VERDICT:

Picca highlighted an excellent, delicious modernization of traditional Peruvian street foods.  The menu showcased some of my personal favorite ingredients including uni and beef hearts.  Relative to Mo-Chica, the food demonstrated more complex flavors but still preserved the whimsy of street food.  One minor complaint was the recycling of ingredients (for example, aji amarillo showed up in 3 of my dishes and rocoto twice) that tended to cloud the distinct taste of each dish.  However, the well-crafted cocktails by resident mixologist Julian Cox, the great service, and the overall delicious food made for a satisfying experience that I would recommend to anyone who enjoys food adventures.