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Sunday, July 31, 2011

WP 24 (07-15-2011)

WP24
Friday, 07-15-2011, Happy Hour
Downtown Los Angeles, CA


 
WP24 is another fine-dining establishment from LA-based celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck.  He, possibly like no other chef, has firmly made his mark on California cuisine with double Michelin-starred Spago, Asian-inspired Chinois on Main and top steakhouse CUT.

This recent addition to his culinary empire resides on the 24th floor of the new Ritz Carlton in Downtown / LA Live.  I was always curious to give it a try for many reasons: 1) I lived one block away,  2) I was blown away by Spago,  3) I'm Chinese and always skeptical about Asian fusion, particularly when the mecca of authentic chinese food is 15 minutes away in the San Gabriel Valley (where I happened to grow up as well).  However, the expensive price always kept me away.  Luckily, WP24 recently introduced a happy hour tasting which consisted of 3 courses for a good deal of $24.


 
Hopf Spezial Weisse [$9.00]
Weissbierbrauerei Hopf, Germany

COURSE 1a: SZECHUAN CHICKEN DAN DAN DUMPLINGS

COURSE 1b: BBQ PORK BELLY BAO BUNS

COURSE 2a: FLAT IRON STIR-FRIED STEAK, SPINACH AND EGGPLANT

COURSE 2b: HONG KONG STYLE WHITE SALMON AND BABY BOK CHOY

COURSE 3: MARJOLASIAN
Layers of White Espresso Mousse and Dark Chocolate

VERDICT:
Was I blown away?  Nah.  Don't get me wrong, the food tasted good.  The Chinese flavors were familiar though slightly oversalted with soy sauce.  The pork buns were not as succulent as the ones I tasted at Momofuku Ssam Bar in NYC.  Authentic dan-dan dumplings with similar tastes can be had in SGV for a quarter of the price.  But the setting atop the Ritz Carlton was absolutely beautiful with panoramic views of the downtown skyline.  With the happy hour pricing, the venue is worth a visit if not to just enjoy the view.   

M.B. Post (07-02-2011)

M.B. Post
Saturday, 07-02-2011
Manhattan Beach, CA


Former executive chef of Michelin-starred Water Grill David LeFevre left the fine dining scene to start his own place in the South Bay.  His concept was (surprise surprise) causal upscale dining featuring small plates to share.  Reservations at prime times have been difficult to come by, particularly on short notice.  However, on the weekend I decided to give this place a try, he just newly introduced a limited happy hour menu.  Thus I arrived late on a Saturday afternoon for some drinks and stayed at the bar to sample the full menu.

MORT SUBITE WHITE LAMBIC [$8.50]
Brouwerij De Keersmaeker, Kobegem, Belgium
 
MICHARONA [$7.00]
Tequila, Tomato, Corona

 
BACON CHEDDAR BUTTERMILK BISCUITS [$5.00]
Maple Butter

 
GRILLED NECTARINE TART [$11.00]
Whipped Ricotta, Arugula, Candied Walnuts

 
ZISSOU [$7.00]
Rum, Luxardo Cherry, Tangerine

 
PAN ROASTED BRUSSEL SPROUTS [$9.00]
Emmental, Hazelnuts, Sage

 
SLOW STEAMED TAI SNAPPER [$15.00]
Bok Choy, Sudachi, Lotus Root, Kaffir Lime

 
MEYERS FARM 'NEVER EVER' SKIRT STEAK [$17.00]
Grilled Broccolini, Red Chimichurri

 
MOROCCAN BBQ LAMB BELLY [$13.00]
Creamy Semolina, Cardamom Carrots



VERDICT:
Though the happy hour didn't really include any eye-opening deals, it did open the door to a great dinner menu.  Each item ordered was better than expected and packed with bold flavors.  Since the chef hails from a fine dining seafood establishment, the tai snapper was a no-brainer and it definitely compared favorably with any fish dish I've had in recent memory.  The biscuits were so tasty it inspired my friend to create her own variation at home the next weekend.  The vibe of the restaurant was right up my alley: relaxed and low-key.  By the time 7olcock rolled around, the dining room was packed with people and with food so delicious, I could see why. 

 

Friday, July 29, 2011

Fig & Olive (07-01-2011)

Fig & Olive
Friday, 07-01-2011
West Hollywood, Los Angeles, CA
http://www.figandolive.com


 
Fig & Olive is a much anticipated NY import that debuted in West Hollywood in March of 2011.  They built their brand on featuring olive oils from the Riviera and Costal regions of the South of France, Italy, and Spain.  A NY friend of mine brags frequently about the depth of flavors at her local outpost and thus I was excited to try the latest Los Angeles rendition.

EL MATADOR [$12.00]
Tequila, Cachaca, Fresh Lime Juice, Cilantro Syrup, Muddled Jalapeno

 
ROSEMARY BREAD WITH OLIVE OIL TASTING
Oils from France, Italy, Spain

 
CEVICHE & TARTAR TASTING [$19.00]
Branzino Lemon Ceviche: Red Onion, Tomato, Fennel, Dill
Salmon Ceviche: Orange, Grapefruit, Lemon, Cilantro
Crab Tartar: Avocado, Pine Nuts, Shallot, Tomato
Sesame Tuna Tartar: Chive, Shallot, Cucumber

 
AVOCADO & LIME [$9.00]
Chilled Soup of Avocado, Lime, Coconut, Tabasco Scallion
Crab, Avocado, Cilantro, Pine Nuts Crostini

 
FIG GORGONZOLA TARLET [$15.00]
Warm Gorgonzola, Proscuitto, Fig, Walnut, Arugula, Tomato on a Fine Puff Pastry

 
ORECCHIETTE WITH BROCCOLINI & GRILLED HALIBUT [$23.00]
Halibut, Broccolini, Cherry Tomato, Shallot, Mascarpone, Lemon Thyme Olive Oil

 
PAELLA DEL MAR [$27.00]
Black Tiger Shrimp, Diver Scallop, Garden Vegetable, Artichoke Tapenade, Saffron Rice, Pimenton & Oregano Hojiblanca Olive Oil

 
MISSION IPA [$8.00]
Mission Brewery, Chula Vista, CA

 
WARM MARZIPAN CAKE [$9.00]
Candied Orange and Olive Oil, Fresh Orange and Toasted Almonds, Olive Oil Gelato


Verdict:
The general perception of LA seems to be that people are supeficial, pseudo-glamorous, "trying to make it in the entertainment biz" types with nothing else to do but act snooty and dress to impress.  Having spent most of my life in LA, this was not my experience at all.  I always defended Los Angeles with the "you only see that on reality TV, that's not true LA."  After dining in this restaurant for 3+ hours on a Friday night, I can now see why out-of-towners develop this stereotype.  The beautiful dining room was full of entertainment types, dressed to the nines all seemingly yapping about fashion and entertainment.  Everyone but my dining party seemed poised to hit the Hollywood clubs immediately after dinner. Perhaps the location and the excitement over the restaurant opening contributed to what felt like an elitist and slightly uptight dining experience.  But enough about the ambience and onto the food!

The meal started off with a bang, with delicious and distinct olive oils accompanying home-baked rosemary bread.  This dish highlighted the philosophy of the restaurant and awakened my palate for foods to come.  The ceviche and tartar tasting demonstrated exceptional skill in combining different raw seafoods with various citruses and herbs to create contrasting textures and flavors.  However, both entrees were big letdowns.  The orecchiette was dry to the point of being almost inedible and the seafood paella was plain and had rubberly overcooked shrimp.

Would I come back?  Perhaps but only for the small appetizer bites and specialty oils and only in the middle of the week to avoid the crowds.  Spare me the entrees and please, spare me the ambience.          

 

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Picca (06-24-2011)

Picca Peruvian Cantina
Friday, 06-24-2011
Los Angeles, CA



Picca is the 2nd re-incarnation of Pervian cuisine in Los Angeles by Ricardo Zarate, after his smashing success at Mo-Chica.  Since opening the small walk-up counter by USC, he has been busy with organizing and frequently manning the kitchen at semi-permanent pop-up Test Kitchen.  In fact, Picca occupies the same townhouse just one flight of stairs up from the original Test Kitchen location.  Ricardo Zarate has gardnered high accolades in 2010 and 2011 including one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs of the year.  Test Kitchen e-subscribers were invited to a not-so-exclusive preview dinner the two days prior to official opening.  It was organized into a 5 course tasting menu with various offerings to choose from.  Tasty chicken anticuchos were highlighted at Taste of the Nation just a few days prior and I couldn't wait to try more.


CHILCANO DE ANIS [$11.00]
Pisco, Lime Juice, Ginger Syrup, Anise syrup, Soda, Mint


SCALA DEI NEGRE [$12.00]
Grenache, Priorat, Spain 2009


COURSE 1a: CHORITOS
Steamed Mussels, Pancetta, Aji Amarillo Butter


COURSE 1b: CONCHAS A LA PARMESANA
Scallops, Parmesan Cheese, Spinach, Lemon Sauce Dressing


COURSE 2a: CAUSA SUSHI SPICY YELLOW TAIL
Spicy Mayo, Green Onions, Wasabi Tobiko


COURSE 2b: TRES LECHES DE TIGRE
Sea Urchin, Rocoto, Aji Amarillo Shooters


MARACUYA [$11.00]
Pisco, Absinthe, Fresh Passion Fruit, Lemon Juice, Grenadine, Cava, Lemon Twist Garnish


COURSE 3a: BLACK COD MISO ANTICUCHO
Crispy Sweet Potato 


COURSE 3b: CORAZON ANTICUCHO
Beef Heart, Rocoto Sauce


COURSE 4a: ARROZ CON ERIZO
Peruvian Paella, Mixed Seafood, Sea Urchin Sauce


COURSE 4b: BISTECK A LO POBRE
Skirt Steak, Egg, Pan Fried Banana, Chickpeas Tacu Tacu


COURSE 5a: CHEESECAKE
Aji Amarillo, Pinapple, Marmalade 


COURSE 5b: DULCE DE LECHE CHURROS
Carob, Marmalade and Chocolate Sauces


VERDICT:
Picca highlighted an excellent, delicious modernization of traditional Peruvian street foods.  The menu showcased some of my personal favorite ingredients including uni and beef hearts.  Relative to Mo-Chica, the food demonstrated more complex flavors but still preserved the whimsy of street food.  One minor complaint was the recycling of ingredients (for example, aji amarillo showed up in 3 of my dishes and rocoto twice) that tended to cloud the distinct taste of each dish.  However, the well-crafted cocktails by resident mixologist Julian Cox, the great service, and the overall delicious food made for a satisfying experience that I would recommend to anyone who enjoys food adventures.




A.O.C. (06-18-2011)

A.O.C. Wine Bar
Saturday, 06-18-2011
Los Angeles, CA

 

A.O.C. was opened in 2003 by celebrity chef Suzanne Goin as a follow-up to her first wildly popular and Southern California staple Lucques Restaurant.  This tapas-style restaurant is frequently credited for revolutionizing the dining scene and popularizing the small plates concept.  Through all the success, the restaurant was never open for lunch.  This all changed April 2011 when the chef introduced a weekend brunch menu following the success of brunch at their 3rd local establishment, Tavern.  Below is a small sampling of their recently introduced menu.


Wood Oven-Baked Pancake with Blueberries, Pistachio and Candied Meyer Lemon [$13.00]




Duck Confit and Wild Mushroom Hash with Poached Eggs and Aged Balsamic [$17.00]


Wood Oven-Baked Fritta with Hook's Cheddar, Young Broccoli and Gremolata [$14.00]



VERDICT:
It is difficult to judge a restaurant's food from only a small sampling but I enjoyed all three of the dishes imaged above.  The savory duck confit and earthy mushroom hash blended well with the poached egg.  The thick fluffy pancake had the texture of a desert cake and was topped with a supprisingly balanced combination of pistachios, berries and lemons.  I have yet to dine at Lucques or Tavern but if the flavors of A.O.C. are any indication, I can't wait to give those places a try.