ink. (09-28-2011)

ink.

Wednesday, 09-28-2011

West Hollywood, Los Angeles, CA

http://mvink.com

I was so pumped about my visit to ink. on opening day that I blabbed about it to anybody who would listen for the last week.  At that time, 16 savory dishes were offered and my friend and I could only stomach 9 of them.  There were 4 desserts too, and we could only put away one.  So I returned one week later to try the remaining 7 dishes.  Not surprisingly, there were a couple new dishes added to the menu, as well as some already missing items. 

MEZCAL - lemon, ginger, clover honey, angostura bitters [$12.00]
HOUSE MADE SODA - pomegranate mango clove {$4.00]

DUNGENESS CRAB [$9.00]
Smoked Mayo, Avocado

BEEF TARTARE [$16.00]
horseradish, hearts of palm, sea bean chimichurri

YOUNG TURNIPS AND RADISHES [$9.00]
coffee-cardamom soil, nasturtium, vadouvan, frozen yogurt

SPAGHETTI [$14.00]
giant squid, squash, hazelnut-ink pesto, piment d'espilette

OCTOPUS [$16.00]
buttered popcorn, piquillo pepper, spinach

SEA BASS [$22.00]
lemon, caper, brown butter, romanesco, black olive oil, anchovy

IBERIAN PORK [$22.00]
burnt orange, saffron-salsify

BEEF SHORT RIB [$25.00]
sweet and sour mushrooms, muschroom chicharron, black garlic

PORTER - eel river brewing company, organic, fortuna, ca [$6.00]
BRANDY - figs, mint, lemon [$13.00]

GOAT CHEESE [$10.00]
ash, concord grape, arugula


VERDICT:
Voltaggio does it again.  I just love his creativity with food.  He doesn't compromise on his ingredients but still manages to keep the dishes playful.  His strength, besides flavors obviously, is using modernist techniques selectively in creating an element of surprise to each bite.  The beef tartare was a new dish not featured on opening night and the twist in the dish was a frozen liquid nitrogen capsule of horseradish.  The "spaghetti" was actually made of squid sliced thinly.  The avocado portion of the crab dish came in two forms: both as a slightly unripe sphere and as a air foam.  The meats were melt-in-your-mouth soft.  And again, the cocktails were spot on.  The only complaint about my 2nd visit was that the service felt just a bit rushed.  Sitting at the bar, my party of two were seated and served 9 dishes and 5 drinks in just under an hour and a half.  But would I recommend this place?  Of course.  When omakase starts, I'll definitely be back in line.

ink. (09-21-2011)

ink.

Wednesday, 09-21-2011

West Hollywood, Los Angeles, CA

http://mvink.com

It's finally here.  After months of anticipation, Michael Voltaggio finally opened his doors and I wanted to be there opening night for the experience.  Too bad reservations for the first 30 days were quickly snatched up online and I was out of luck.  But when I heard the bar (with a full menu) would have 10 seats open on a  first come first serve basis, I was sure to make it there.  Devno Espinoza is the expert mixologist manning the cocktails.  Some may recognize him from Venice's Tasting Kitchen or TV's "Marce's Quantum Kitchen."  

Just a month prior to ink.'s opening, I was impressed by Voltaggio's casual sandwich shop ink.sack just around the corner--if the sandwiches were any indication of the quality of food to be expected, then I was preparing to be blown away.

BOURBON, Pineapple, Anise [$11.00]

RUM, Lime, House Falernum [$10.00]

BLUE PRAWNS [$12.00]

Green Papaya, Finger Lime, Shrimp Cracker

HAMACHI [$16.00]

Green Apple, Aged Soy, Ginger Ice

SCOTCH, Lemon, Apple Cider, Egg White, Cinnamon [$13.00]

TEQUILA, Serrano, Lime, Grapefruit, Soda [$11.00]

SEAWEED MASHED POTATOES [$8.00]

Sea Grass, Sea Beans

BAY SCALLOPS [$14.00]

Cream of Dehydrated Potato, Potato Skins, Buttermilk-Shellfish Broth

BLACK COD [$18.00]

Red Pepper Dashi, Shishito Peppers, Kelp Pasta

MUSHROOM CONGEE [$12.00]

Duck Tongues, Duck Egg, Ash Oil

CORNED BEEF [$14.00]

Appenzeller Churro, Red Onion, Pastrami Syrup

QUAIL [$19.00]

Jordan Almonds, Charred Orange and Onion, Sorrel Cream

G'KNIGHT IMPERIAL RED, Oskar Blues, Longmont, CO [$8.00]

VODKA, Lime, Ginger, Soda [$10.00]

VEAL CHEEK [$17.00]

Red Curry, Coconut Rice, Nante Carrots Baked in Salt

GRAPEFRUIT CURD [$8.00]

Avocado, Cilantro Sorbet, Charred Maple-Lime

VERDICT:

Maybe I'm a sucker for all the hype, but this was my favorite meal of the year.  There wasn't a dish that missed the mark.  More impressively though, each dish had a bit of a surprise in terms of texture or flavor.  Ginger "ice" with sweet hamachi and tart green apple?  Beautiful combos.  Cod wrapped in kelp?  Perfect soft texture with sea essence.  Cilantro sorbet?  Awesome!  The food from The Dining Room at the Langham Hotel was a good showcase from a Top Chef winner, but ink.'s menu is decidedly more edgy.  I'm thinking an Asian-inspired Bazaar, minus the check-me-out crowd.  I thought the prices were reasonable too given the quality of food and ingredients. 

Cocktails were well-crafted and paired beautifully with the dishes.  Food service at the bar was great, particularly for an opening day.  I plan on returning someday very soon to try the remaining 7 dishes on the menu before the original set evolves.  And of course, I'll be back when Chef Voltaggio starts his omakase dining at the sushi bar.