ink. (09-21-2011)

ink.

Wednesday, 09-21-2011

West Hollywood, Los Angeles, CA

http://mvink.com

It's finally here.  After months of anticipation, Michael Voltaggio finally opened his doors and I wanted to be there opening night for the experience.  Too bad reservations for the first 30 days were quickly snatched up online and I was out of luck.  But when I heard the bar (with a full menu) would have 10 seats open on a  first come first serve basis, I was sure to make it there.  Devno Espinoza is the expert mixologist manning the cocktails.  Some may recognize him from Venice's Tasting Kitchen or TV's "Marce's Quantum Kitchen."  

Just a month prior to ink.'s opening, I was impressed by Voltaggio's casual sandwich shop ink.sack just around the corner--if the sandwiches were any indication of the quality of food to be expected, then I was preparing to be blown away.

BOURBON, Pineapple, Anise [$11.00]

RUM, Lime, House Falernum [$10.00]

BLUE PRAWNS [$12.00]

Green Papaya, Finger Lime, Shrimp Cracker

HAMACHI [$16.00]

Green Apple, Aged Soy, Ginger Ice

SCOTCH, Lemon, Apple Cider, Egg White, Cinnamon [$13.00]

TEQUILA, Serrano, Lime, Grapefruit, Soda [$11.00]

SEAWEED MASHED POTATOES [$8.00]

Sea Grass, Sea Beans

BAY SCALLOPS [$14.00]

Cream of Dehydrated Potato, Potato Skins, Buttermilk-Shellfish Broth

BLACK COD [$18.00]

Red Pepper Dashi, Shishito Peppers, Kelp Pasta

MUSHROOM CONGEE [$12.00]

Duck Tongues, Duck Egg, Ash Oil

CORNED BEEF [$14.00]

Appenzeller Churro, Red Onion, Pastrami Syrup

QUAIL [$19.00]

Jordan Almonds, Charred Orange and Onion, Sorrel Cream

G'KNIGHT IMPERIAL RED, Oskar Blues, Longmont, CO [$8.00]

VODKA, Lime, Ginger, Soda [$10.00]

VEAL CHEEK [$17.00]

Red Curry, Coconut Rice, Nante Carrots Baked in Salt

GRAPEFRUIT CURD [$8.00]

Avocado, Cilantro Sorbet, Charred Maple-Lime

VERDICT:

Maybe I'm a sucker for all the hype, but this was my favorite meal of the year.  There wasn't a dish that missed the mark.  More impressively though, each dish had a bit of a surprise in terms of texture or flavor.  Ginger "ice" with sweet hamachi and tart green apple?  Beautiful combos.  Cod wrapped in kelp?  Perfect soft texture with sea essence.  Cilantro sorbet?  Awesome!  The food from The Dining Room at the Langham Hotel was a good showcase from a Top Chef winner, but ink.'s menu is decidedly more edgy.  I'm thinking an Asian-inspired Bazaar, minus the check-me-out crowd.  I thought the prices were reasonable too given the quality of food and ingredients. 

Cocktails were well-crafted and paired beautifully with the dishes.  Food service at the bar was great, particularly for an opening day.  I plan on returning someday very soon to try the remaining 7 dishes on the menu before the original set evolves.  And of course, I'll be back when Chef Voltaggio starts his omakase dining at the sushi bar.