Search This Blog

Thursday, September 29, 2011

ink. (09-28-2011)

ink.
Wednesday, 09-28-2011
West Hollywood, Los Angeles, CA
http://mvink.com


I was so pumped about my visit to ink. on opening day that I blabbed about it to anybody who would listen for the last week.  At that time, 16 savory dishes were offered and my friend and I could only stomach 9 of them.  There were 4 desserts too, and we could only put away one.  So I returned one week later to try the remaining 7 dishes.  Not surprisingly, there were a couple new dishes added to the menu, as well as some already missing items. 


MEZCAL - lemon, ginger, clover honey, angostura bitters [$12.00]
HOUSE MADE SODA - pomegranate mango clove {$4.00]


DUNGENESS CRAB [$9.00]
Smoked Mayo, Avocado


BEEF TARTARE [$16.00]
horseradish, hearts of palm, sea bean chimichurri


YOUNG TURNIPS AND RADISHES [$9.00]
coffee-cardamom soil, nasturtium, vadouvan, frozen yogurt


SPAGHETTI [$14.00]
giant squid, squash, hazelnut-ink pesto, piment d'espilette


OCTOPUS [$16.00]
buttered popcorn, piquillo pepper, spinach


SEA BASS [$22.00]
lemon, caper, brown butter, romanesco, black olive oil, anchovy


IBERIAN PORK [$22.00]
burnt orange, saffron-salsify


BEEF SHORT RIB [$25.00]
sweet and sour mushrooms, muschroom chicharron, black garlic


PORTER - eel river brewing company, organic, fortuna, ca [$6.00]
BRANDY - figs, mint, lemon [$13.00]

GOAT CHEESE [$10.00]
ash, concord grape, arugula


VERDICT:
Voltaggio does it again.  I just love his creativity with food.  He doesn't compromise on his ingredients but still manages to keep the dishes playful.  His strength, besides flavors obviously, is using modernist techniques selectively in creating an element of surprise to each bite.  The beef tartare was a new dish not featured on opening night and the twist in the dish was a frozen liquid nitrogen capsule of horseradish.  The "spaghetti" was actually made of squid sliced thinly.  The avocado portion of the crab dish came in two forms: both as a slightly unripe sphere and as a air foam.  The meats were melt-in-your-mouth soft.  And again, the cocktails were spot on.  The only complaint about my 2nd visit was that the service felt just a bit rushed.  Sitting at the bar, my party of two were seated and served 9 dishes and 5 drinks in just under an hour and a half.  But would I recommend this place?  Of course.  When omakase starts, I'll definitely be back in line.




1 comment: