Volt Table 21 (08-31-2013)

Volt Table 21

Frederick, MD

Saturday, 8/31/2013

http://www.voltrestaurant.com/

The Voltaggio brothers have intrigued me since their 1-2 finish on Season 6 of Top Chef.  Call it my "man crushes" if you will.  Winner and younger brother Michael has made his mark in Los Angeles after the win with his popular outpost ink, which quickly became a favorite of mine.  Older brother Bryan, however, was already well-established in his hometown of Frederick, MD prior to the show and has even returned to television as a finalist in the most recent season of Top Chef Masters.  

My recent move to the easten time zone was a great reason to check out this all of a sudden, not too far, restaurant.  

Table 21 is an 8-seat counter (chef's table?) around the kitchen which serves an exclusive 21 course menu priced at a reasonable $150.

Smoke on the Water - mezcal, watermelon, aperol [$11]

Aviation - gin, maraschino, creme de violette

Deviled Egg - celeriac macaroon, whitemore farm hen egg, sturgeon roe

 Oyster - cocktail ice, onion bloom

John Copes Corn Gouere - pimento cheese

Lamb - babganoush, bean flowers

Yellow Tomato - maryland crab, sourdough, mustard seeds

Heirloom Tomato - burrata, basil

Tomato Dishes on the same plate

Yellowfin Tuna - avocado, green apple, pine nut, soy

Crackers

Sazerac - rye, bitters, lemon, fennel [$11]

Young Carrots - baked in an aromatic salt crust, marsh samphire, sheap's milk

 Summer Beans - goat ricotta, fava bean hummus

Sourdough Linguini - olde salt clams, smoked potato, chives

Softshell Crab - celeriac caper, lemon

Calamari Bolognese - miso, squid ink cavatelli, parmesan

Monkfish - stinging nettle, artichoke, fennel

Flying Dog Brewing - Doggie Style Ale [$5]

Rockfish - wilted green cabbage, chorizo, turnip peach

Pork - braised cheek and jowl, celeriac, fava beans, pearl onion

 Beef - snap peas, carrot, coconut yogurt, vadouvan

Monocacy Ash - rhubarb, almond, nasturtium flowers and leaves, toasted vanilla brioche

 Milk and Honey - goat's milk gelato, jasmine, caramel

 Coffee [$3]

Chocolate - toasted marshmallow, peanut, caramel

Chocolate Popsicle

Mignardises - candies and chocolates

Mignardises - open box

Sous Chef Graham (winner of Battle of the Sous Chefs)


Verdict

Pros:
- celebrity chef
- good amount of bites at a fairly reasonable price
- "the hip place to be" in Frederick, MD (does this count?)
- great cocktails
- pretty spot on service
- awesome historic building

Cons:
- Bryan, you couldn't be around to sign my cookbook?  c'mon man!  Your little bro signed it!
- "I saw you do that on top chef so it's not that new anymore"
- all dishes were good, but none had a "wow" factor

wd~50 (04-17-2011)

wd~50

Sunday, 04-17-2011

Lower East Side, NYC, NY

http://www.wd-50.com/

It's pretty difficult to watch any TV show involving or using a molecular gastronomy technique without chef Wylie Dufresne being mentioned.  He has helped put modernist techniques on the map.  The current trend of "whimsical dining" can be credited to chef Dufresne as well.  On my trip to New York, I was sure to visit this restaurant to sample some of the creative cuisine.  Unfortunately, chef Dufresne was not in house this particular Sunday night, allowing sous chef Jon Bignelli to lead the kitchen on his off-nights.  Tasting menu below was $140.

Seasame Seed Cracker

Bohemian Pilsner
Tuatara Brewing Company, New Zealand

Fluke, black sesame, parsnip, green beans

Everything bagel, smoked salmon threads, crispy cream cheese

Black Pilsner
Monchshof World Classic Schwarz, Kulmacher, Germany

Foie gras, passionfruit, chinese celery

Poached egg and the shell, caesar dressing, pumpernickel, lily bulb

King oyster 'udon,' sweetbreads, banana-molasses, pickled ginger

Tai snapper, onion tart, coffee, asian pear

Beef and bearnaise

Lamb loin, 'red beans & rice,' chayote squash

Buttermilk ice cream, cumin, orange blossom

Grapefruit curd, campari, hibiscus, sorrel

 Soft chocolate, beets, long pepper, ricotta ice cream

 Cocoa packets. Rice krispy treats.


VERDICT: This was interesting food to say the least, but the flavors didn't blow me away.  It seemed to be more gimmick than taste.  Don't get me wrong--I was amused the whole time and I'm really glad I tried it.

Few items on the plate were what they seemed and many familiar flavors came in unexpected textures.  Ice cold parsnips?  Edible clay 'egg shells?'   All the flavors of a bagel in an ice cream dish?  Udon made with mushrooms?  Modern, for sure.

The lasting memory of the meal is definitely the creativity.  Many chefs have since used similar techniques but may be showing more restraint with the molecular gastronomy and focusing more on the flavors.  I guess they have Chef Dufresne to thank.