Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar (05-16-2011)

Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar

Monday, 05-16-2011

Yaletown, Vancouver BC, Canada

http://www.bluewatercafe.net/

My visit to West Restaurant the night before did not provide a full spectrum of Vancouver's famous local seafood.  Luckily, when I mentioned this to the servers at West, they recognized exactly what I was seeking and recommended Blue Water Cafe to satisfy my craving.  It just so happens that the two restaurants share the same owner and thus I had my suspicions of the recommendation.  However, upon a quick internet search, Blue Water Cafe did seem to be a popular pick for Vancouver's best seafood.  Noticing no tasting menu on their website, I called the restaurant and director Stephan Cachard was more than willing to piece together a spontaneous tasting menu consisting of 6 courses.

 

BREADS: Rustic White, Seaweed Butter, Chickpea and Roasted Red Pepper Spread

JACOB'S LADDER, Ginger and Basil Infused Beefeater Gin, Orgeat Chartreuse and Julienned Cucumber [$12.00]

 

AMUSE BOUCHE: KUSSHI & KUNIMOTO OYSTERS, Pickled Seaweed, Candian Sturgeon Caviar, Ponzu



KANI SALAD, Dungeness Crab, Wakame Seaweed, Thinly Sliced Cucumber

BC SPOT PRAWNS, Watercress & Celery Salad, Rhubarb, Szechaun Peppercorn

 

WHISTLER POWDER MOUNTAIN LAGER, Whistler Brewing Company, Whistler, BC, Canada [$7.00]
WHISTLER WHISKY JACK ALE, Whistler Brewing Company, Whistler, BC, Canada [$7.00]

 

WEST COAST SABLEFISH, Miso Sake Glaze, Baby Bok Choy, Edamame, Quinoa, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bonito Dashi with Soy and Yuzu

 

WHITE STURGEON, Chioggia Beets, Pumpernickel Crust, Cauliflower puree, Garnet Beet Agro Dolce

 

KOBE STYLE SHORTRIBS, Braised Red Cabbage with Apple and Cinnamon, Parsnip Puree, Rutabaga, Tawny Port Reduction

 

SUPPLEMENT: WAGYU BEEF STRIP, Puree de Pommes, Asparagus, Bordelaise

 

COCONUT TREAT, Chocolate Brownie with Coconut Cream, Dark Chocolate Mousee, Coconut Sorbet

 

PETIT FOURS: Shortbread with Raspberry Ganache, Candied Orange Financier

VERDICT:

With executive chef Frank Pabst out for the night, sous chef Spencer Maxemuik put together a great, balanced impromptu tasting menu with just a 6 hour heads up, highlightly BC's local seafood variations.  The contemporary cuisine with heavily borrowed Asian influences suited my palate well.  Each dish was seasoned aggressively and overall flavors just worked.  Perhaps most impressive was the service-- when I casually mentioned to my server that braised beef was not my favorite texture/taste, a small gratis portion of wagyu strip came my way in just a few minutes.   

West Restaurant (05-15-2011)

West Restaurant
Sunday, 05-15-2011
South Granville, Vancouver BC, Canada
http://www.westrestaurant.com/

 

 

In anticipation of my short trip to Vancouver, I researched the most popular restaurants to get a taste of the city's dining scene.  West Restaurant seemed to fit the bill with its contemporary cuisine just outside of downtown in South Granville.  Two different 5-course tasting menus are offered.  Picture below is the chef's tasting menu.

AMUSE BOUCHE: Warm Celery Soup with Weisswurst

BREADS: Dark Rye, Potato & Chives

YA MON, Organic Banana, Goslings Black Seal Rum, Navan Giffard Caramel + Pineapple

ALBACORE TUNA, Nicoise Vegetable Salad, Sake Kasu Emulsion

SPOT PRAWN, Spring Onion, D-Original Chorizo, Sauce Vierge

CUTTHROAT PALE ALE, Tree Brewing, Kelowna BC, Canada

THIESSEN FARM QUAIL, Roasted Breast, Confit Leg, Beets, Mushrooms, Double Smoked Bacon, Pineau de Charentes Jus

28 DAY AGED CERTIFIED ANGUS BEEF RIBEYE, Forgotten Vegetables, Onion Consomme

PADDYWHACK IPA, Nelson Brewing Company, Nelson, BC, Canada

INTERMEZZO: Elderflower and Lime Sorbet, Pear Poached in Hibiscus

VANILLA ROASTED RHUBARB WITH FROZEN LIME CURD, Toasted Elderflower Marshmallow and Graham

PETIT FOUR: Banana Jelly

VERDICT:

Chef David Gunawan produced many various modern dishes with fresh local ingredients.  For example, multiple proteins were prepared in two ways: the albacore tuna as a raw dish and a confit, and the quail with a roast and confit.  At the moment, he also seems fond of using sausages for its salty flavor and firm texture, as evidenced by the weisswurst in the soup and the chorizo in the spot prawn dish. 

Two highlights are worth mentioning:

1. Great service-- I dined solo at the bar and the two bartenders provided great service.  They clearly understood not only the drinks but also the dishes prepared in the back of the house.

2. Bar-- Apparently, West Restaurant's bar and bar manager has won multiple awards for both their wine list as well as their mixology.  Though I only had one cocktail and a couple local brews, all were top-notch and paired well with the tasting (as recommended by the bartender). 

 

The Royce (05-11-2011)

The Royce at the Langham

Wednesday, 05-11-2011

Pasadena, CA

http://roycela.com/

There are not many options when it comes to fine dining east of Downtown Los Angeles.  The restaurant space within The Langham Hotel (formerly a Ritz-Carlton) has always been an exception.  Craig Strong garnished The Dining Room with a Michelin Star in 2009.  But perhaps Michael Voltaggio finally put this place on the national spotlight when he dominated and eventually won his season of Top Chef while acting as Chef de Cuisine in this establishment.  His success led to a scheduled re-model of the restaurant but prior to commencement, Michael Voltaggio left for his own venture.  Following his tenure is current Chef David Feau of prior Patina Restaurant Group fame.  He presents a 5 course tasting menu as well as a more expansive chef's tasting menu available at the chef's table.

STARTER: Rose--merlot

AMUSE BUCHE: Duck Breast Proscuitto & Pear, Pickled Cauliflower & Saffron, Warm Leek & Butter Lettuce Soup

BREAD: French Baguette, Green Olive Bread

COURSE 1: KAMPACHI / KINOME, kampachi fillet, radish oro blanco grapefruit, fuerte avocado, kinome leaves

COURSE 2: LOBSTER / CELERY, lobster agnolotti, celery coconut emulsion, upland cress

COURSE 3: TURBOT / RAMP, turbot fillet plancha, fins-ramps-ham "cotto" "ragoutte", charred leeks, fava beans

COURSE #4: BEEF / POIVRE, wagyu beef "au poivre", wilted spigarello broccoli, baby yukon potato, fondant-craquant 

INTERMEZZO: Camomile Tea Sorbet

PETITS FOURS: Lemon Meringue, Cheesecake, Hazelnut Verona Chocolate

COURSE #5a: FRAISE DES BOIS / FRAISE BLANCHE, Egg White Steamed Floating Island, Strawberry-pineapple-sage consume "frappe"

COURSE #5b: CHOCOLATE / CHOCOLATE, Variation of Chocolate Textures

CHOCOLATES: white chocolate with espelette pepper, dark chocolate with fleur del sel, expresso chocolate

VERDICT:

Michael Voltaggio's shoes were tough to fill but The Royce got it right with David Feau.  Dishes were unique--proteins were wonderfully cooked and well-seasoned.  Though the service was bumpy at times (with some items mis-identified and uneven timing between dishes), the overall experience was well worth the price.  I could see myself returning for the chef's table in the near future.

 

Le Bernardin (04-16-2011)

Le Bernardin

Saturday 04-16-2011

Midtown NYC, NY

http://www.le-bernardin.com/

No doubt one of America's finest eateries, Le Bernardin was tops on my list of New York's must trys during my recent visit.  Two degustations were offered: an 8 course Chef's Tasting Menu (a) and a 7 course Le Bernardin Tasting Menu (b).

Amuse Bouche (a,b) : LOBSTER: Poached Lobster

SAISON DUPONT, La Brasserie Dupont, Belgium

ASSORTED BREAD

1st Course (a): FLUKE, Fluke Sashimi, Cripsy Kimchi in a Chilled Citrus, Soy, Jalapeno Nage

1st Course (b): TUNA: Layers of Thinly Pounded Yellowfin Tuna, Foie Gras, Toasted Baguette

2nd Course (a): LANGOUSTINE, Seared Langoustine, Mache and Wild Mushroom Salad, Shaved Foie Gras, White Balsamic Vinaigrette

3rd Course (a): CAVIAR-URCHIN, Osetra Caviar Nestled in Tagliolini, Warm Sea Urchin Sauce

2nd Course (b): OCTOPUS, Charred Octopus, Fermented Black Bean - Pear Sauce Vierge, Ink - Miso Vinaigrette, Purple Basil

4th Course (a): LOBSTER, Baked Lobster, Red Wine Braised Sunchoke, Wilted Filted Fava Sprout, Bergamot Emulsion

3rd Course (b): CAROLINA SHRIMP, Warm Carolina Red Shrimp, Baby Leeks, Kaffir Lime Mariniere

ABITA LIGHT, Abita Brewing Company, Louisiana

5th Course (a): RED SNAPPER, Bread-Crusted Red Snapper, Saffron "Fideos"

4th Course (b): MONKFISH, Pan-Roasted Monkfish, Sean Bean - Sweet Pea Salad in a Light Bearnaise Scented Broth

6th Course (a): TURBOT, Poached Turbot, Wild Mushroom-Black Truffle Custard, Spiced Squab Jus

5th Course (b): BLACK BASS, Cripsy Black Bass, Lup Cheong, Beansprout "Risotto"

7th Course (a): CITRUS, Lime Parfait, Meringue, Avocado Puree, Mint, Grapefruit-Tequila Sorbet

6th Course (b): PANNA COTTA, Greek Yogurt, Candied Walnut, "Red Hot" Apple Gelee

8th Course (a): CHOCOLATE-TEA, Dark Chocolate Cremeux, Cocoa Pain de Genes, Earl Grey Tea Ice Cream

7th Course (b): MILK CHOCOLATE, Maralumi Milk Chocolate Parfait, Liquid Pear, Gingersnap

Petit Fours



VERDICT:
My personal praise of Le Bernardin would mean nothing compared to the 3 Michelin Stars, the 2011 S. Pellegrino World's 18th Best Restaurant, and top Zagat food rating of NY (29) 3 years in a row.  Thus I won't even try--I can only say that I agree!  Food (particularly the sauces) is unbelievable.  Service is impeccable.