The Royce (05-11-2011)

The Royce at the Langham

Wednesday, 05-11-2011

Pasadena, CA

http://roycela.com/

There are not many options when it comes to fine dining east of Downtown Los Angeles.  The restaurant space within The Langham Hotel (formerly a Ritz-Carlton) has always been an exception.  Craig Strong garnished The Dining Room with a Michelin Star in 2009.  But perhaps Michael Voltaggio finally put this place on the national spotlight when he dominated and eventually won his season of Top Chef while acting as Chef de Cuisine in this establishment.  His success led to a scheduled re-model of the restaurant but prior to commencement, Michael Voltaggio left for his own venture.  Following his tenure is current Chef David Feau of prior Patina Restaurant Group fame.  He presents a 5 course tasting menu as well as a more expansive chef's tasting menu available at the chef's table.

STARTER: Rose--merlot

AMUSE BUCHE: Duck Breast Proscuitto & Pear, Pickled Cauliflower & Saffron, Warm Leek & Butter Lettuce Soup

BREAD: French Baguette, Green Olive Bread

COURSE 1: KAMPACHI / KINOME, kampachi fillet, radish oro blanco grapefruit, fuerte avocado, kinome leaves

COURSE 2: LOBSTER / CELERY, lobster agnolotti, celery coconut emulsion, upland cress

COURSE 3: TURBOT / RAMP, turbot fillet plancha, fins-ramps-ham "cotto" "ragoutte", charred leeks, fava beans

COURSE #4: BEEF / POIVRE, wagyu beef "au poivre", wilted spigarello broccoli, baby yukon potato, fondant-craquant 

INTERMEZZO: Camomile Tea Sorbet

PETITS FOURS: Lemon Meringue, Cheesecake, Hazelnut Verona Chocolate

COURSE #5a: FRAISE DES BOIS / FRAISE BLANCHE, Egg White Steamed Floating Island, Strawberry-pineapple-sage consume "frappe"

COURSE #5b: CHOCOLATE / CHOCOLATE, Variation of Chocolate Textures

CHOCOLATES: white chocolate with espelette pepper, dark chocolate with fleur del sel, expresso chocolate

VERDICT:

Michael Voltaggio's shoes were tough to fill but The Royce got it right with David Feau.  Dishes were unique--proteins were wonderfully cooked and well-seasoned.  Though the service was bumpy at times (with some items mis-identified and uneven timing between dishes), the overall experience was well worth the price.  I could see myself returning for the chef's table in the near future.