L'espalier (04-12-2011)

L'espalier

Tuesday 04-12-2011

Boston, MA

http://www.lespalier.com/

There was no restaurant I was more excited to visit on my recent trip to Boston than L'espalier.  It came highly recommended by multiple friends native to the Boston area.  Lead by Chef Frank McClelland, new Chef de Cuisine Shane O'Neill, and pastry chef Jiho Kim, they produce "sophisticated and modern New England-French cuisine, with an emphasis on artisanal and New England ingredients." 

L'espalier offers a Three course Prix Fixe Menu, Seven course Degustation Tasting (or Vegetable )Menu, and a Chef’s Tasting Journey of eleven courses.  Below is the Chef's Tasting Journey.

AMUSE BOUCHE 1: ________

CLEAR MANHATTAN: bourbon, vermouth, bitters 

AMUSE BOUCHE 2: _____________

BREAD OPTIONS: Multi-Grain, Pretzel roll

ISLAND CREEK OYSTER, cucumber foam, American caviar

BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER, sweet pepper emulsion, pear-ginger mousse, Siberian caviar 

PRESERVED LEMON RISOTTO, garlic chips, maple water, shad roe 

SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS, almond cake, salted caramel, green almond milk foam 

INTERMEZZO: sweet linguini?, shot of _____ with _____ sphere 

ATLANTIC STRIPED BASS, Pat's littleneck clam, roasted leeks, shallot puree, German Osetra caviar 

VEAL SWEETBREADS, confit ox tongue, pickled shimeji mushrooms, cauliflower puree, horseradish cream 

ROASTED SQUAB, truffle sausage, spring onion puree, radishes, poached green garlic 

HERB-CRUSTED LOIN OF LAMB, white asparagus, potato and butter truffle emulsion, black trumpet mushrooms 

SELECTION OF CHEESES AND CONDIMENTS

(packaged to-go on our request)

COCONUT SORBET, *** 

CHOCOLATE DECADENCE, aerated ice cream, blood orange fluid gel, pistachio crumble, wafer streusel, fruit of cacao

 CHOCOLATE SPHERES, chocolate truffle, white chocolate kiss

 COCONUT MACAROON

VERDICT:

The chef's tasting journey highlights the fine detail and thought process that goes into each of the dishes presented.  It was a well-balanced meal with high quality, seasonal ingredients.  Suprisingly, the highlight of the night was the dessert tasting offered by pastry chef Jiho Kim.  He combined classic ingredients with cutting-edge molecular gastronomy to create a variety of flavors and textures.  Overall, this was a truly impressive meal that ranks amongst the best I've enjoyed.