Chimu (07-25-2011)

Chimu

Monday, 07-25-2011

Downtown Los Angeles, CA

http://www.soulfoodofperu.com/

Peruvian food has really taken off in Los Angeles.  Staples like Mario's Peruvian, Natalie Peruvian, and even Pollo a la Brasa have delivered quality and authentic Peruvian dining for years but Ricardo Zarate really put Peruvian cuisine on the map with Mo-Chica and his follow-up Picca.  Chef Mario Alberto Orellana, previously of Mo-Chica and Lazy Ox Canteen, presents his own version of Peruvian food, which a more humble twist he dubs "soul food."  He recently took a spot at Grand Central Market in Downtown Los Angeles and targets primarily the lunch and take-home dinner crowd.

Chicha Morada [$2.50]

Emoliente [$2.50]

CEVICHE CHIMU [$12.00]

Halibut, Sweet Potato, Seaweed, Choclo, Leche del Tigre

SECO DE CORDERO [$11.00]

Lamb Belly, Canario Beans, Black Beer Sauce

CHANCHO [$10.00]

Pork Belly, Stewed Barley, Tomato, Huacatay

VERDICT:

Peruvian ceviche is probably my favorite preparation of raw fish and Chimu's version may be the best I've had in recent memory.  The halibut was perfectly tart with citrus leche de tigre and pickled seaweed yet dampened by the sweet potato puree and crunchy corn.  The meat dishes were delicious as well.  The pork was appropriately fatty with a crispy skin and the lamb was braised to a fall-apart texture.  Both meats were served with a side of stewed beans/barley, which really contributed to the "soul food" aspect of their restaurant.  I would consider this place a less upscale but equally delicious version of Mo-Chica.  Hopefully, they will extend their hours to normal dinner service as well.