Volt Table 21 (08-31-2013)

Volt Table 21

Frederick, MD

Saturday, 8/31/2013

http://www.voltrestaurant.com/

The Voltaggio brothers have intrigued me since their 1-2 finish on Season 6 of Top Chef.  Call it my "man crushes" if you will.  Winner and younger brother Michael has made his mark in Los Angeles after the win with his popular outpost ink, which quickly became a favorite of mine.  Older brother Bryan, however, was already well-established in his hometown of Frederick, MD prior to the show and has even returned to television as a finalist in the most recent season of Top Chef Masters.  

My recent move to the easten time zone was a great reason to check out this all of a sudden, not too far, restaurant.  

Table 21 is an 8-seat counter (chef's table?) around the kitchen which serves an exclusive 21 course menu priced at a reasonable $150.

Smoke on the Water - mezcal, watermelon, aperol [$11]

Aviation - gin, maraschino, creme de violette

Deviled Egg - celeriac macaroon, whitemore farm hen egg, sturgeon roe

 Oyster - cocktail ice, onion bloom

John Copes Corn Gouere - pimento cheese

Lamb - babganoush, bean flowers

Yellow Tomato - maryland crab, sourdough, mustard seeds

Heirloom Tomato - burrata, basil

Tomato Dishes on the same plate

Yellowfin Tuna - avocado, green apple, pine nut, soy

Crackers

Sazerac - rye, bitters, lemon, fennel [$11]

Young Carrots - baked in an aromatic salt crust, marsh samphire, sheap's milk

 Summer Beans - goat ricotta, fava bean hummus

Sourdough Linguini - olde salt clams, smoked potato, chives

Softshell Crab - celeriac caper, lemon

Calamari Bolognese - miso, squid ink cavatelli, parmesan

Monkfish - stinging nettle, artichoke, fennel

Flying Dog Brewing - Doggie Style Ale [$5]

Rockfish - wilted green cabbage, chorizo, turnip peach

Pork - braised cheek and jowl, celeriac, fava beans, pearl onion

 Beef - snap peas, carrot, coconut yogurt, vadouvan

Monocacy Ash - rhubarb, almond, nasturtium flowers and leaves, toasted vanilla brioche

 Milk and Honey - goat's milk gelato, jasmine, caramel

 Coffee [$3]

Chocolate - toasted marshmallow, peanut, caramel

Chocolate Popsicle

Mignardises - candies and chocolates

Mignardises - open box

Sous Chef Graham (winner of Battle of the Sous Chefs)


Verdict

Pros:
- celebrity chef
- good amount of bites at a fairly reasonable price
- "the hip place to be" in Frederick, MD (does this count?)
- great cocktails
- pretty spot on service
- awesome historic building

Cons:
- Bryan, you couldn't be around to sign my cookbook?  c'mon man!  Your little bro signed it!
- "I saw you do that on top chef so it's not that new anymore"
- all dishes were good, but none had a "wow" factor